Fiona Nuttall
Menswear A/W collection Cell Block 119 is based on the lifestyle and surroundings of two prisons. Inspired by a modern day prison in El Salvador containing the most dangerous gangs in the world the MS13 and 18 gangs, and closed down prison Alcatraz in San Francisco, which used to hold threatening famous gangsters such as Al Capone. The prison cages in El Salvador are overcrowded and inmates shred their own clothing to create hammocks to sleep. This has been translated and combined with the patterns from the cells in both prisons to garments with macrame tying techniques creating knotted grids as over garments. Placing contrasting colour fabrics behind to communicate the idea of being trapped. Using heavy detailing throughout the collection with strapping and tapes to indicate the idea of the linear lines of the cells and structure of the prisons. Layering is a key feature throughout the collection with many garments having double hems, openings and layers. This gives a deconstructed decaying look. Printed text logos from the influential Alcatraz prison cells are featured throughout the collection showing the branded cell number of the prisoner. Taking inspiration from the distortion of the bodies as they are arrested, using chains and tying similar garments through moulage techniques to create new shape ideas within the garments. Also gaining silhouette and styling ideas from the dress style of the prisoners customising their uniforms to show their personal styles, statuses and personalities. This collections overall styling is oversized, layered and distorted to suggest the trapped and enclosed feeling of the prisons.